Sunday, November 08, 2009

Eating My Way through Paris: Macarons part 4

Well, after reviewing macarons from three patisseries and trying my own hand at making them, I finish this macaron series with Monsieur Macaron Himself, Pierre Hermé - well, at least with his patisserie. We visited the shop (one of two in Paris) located on a quiet corner in Saint Germain des Prés. I was allowed to take precisely and only two photos inside of the store. Here they are:

Lovely, perfect pastries on display.

The famous macarons themselves! I had a hard time getting all the flavors straight -
my French is really abysmal, and I am too proud (sometimes) to speak in English!

After haphazardly choosing a variety of mini-macarons, we headed out to the fountain and park area next to St-Sulpice to enjoy ourselves.

As far as I can remember, the flavors are (clockwise from top right):
mint, cocoa, raspberry and something-or-other, and olive oil-vanilla.


We couldn't miss the famous Ipahan concoction - a giant macaron filled
with raspberries, lychees, and rosewater-flavored cream.
This is Hermé's signature pastry.


Crunch!

The flavors of rosewater, raspberries, and lychees melded together elegantly - and I am always gratified when lychees are used. I feel that they are such an under-appreciated - or, rather, unknown - fruit. But, really, they are so sweet, light, and lovely.

But . . . as amazing as Pierre Hermé and his store are, I must announce the winner of the macaron taste-off as Fauchon. For us, Fauchon's macarons had not only perfect texture but also the most delicious flavorings, and the best balance of sweet, salty, fragrant, and rich. This is not to say that ANY of the patisseries we tried were lacking (although one of the Hermé maracons was slightly too chewy, almost - gasp! - stale). Fauchon was just more perfect. But, of course, I'm always willing to go back to Paris and try everything again!


Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Daring Baker's Challenge: Macarons and the Case of the Missing Feet!

I couldn't have been more excited about a Daring Baker's challenge - imagine having just come back from Paris and sampling the world's finest macarons, only to find out that you yourself are being challenged to produce the same pastry!

Alas, the macarons were not to be. I tried to follow all the advice out there: I aged the egg whites 24 hours, I tapped the baking sheets, I let the unbaked cookies dry out. But the end result was simply not a macaron. A fine almond cookie, sure, but there were no feet! If you scroll down to the other posts below on macarons, the feet are the ruffly edge on the bottom of the macaron cookie. At any rate, at least I tried (and will try again!) and got a good caramel sauce recipe out of the deal.

The 2009 October Daring Bakers’ challenge was brought to us by Ami S. She chose macarons from Claudia Fleming’s The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern as the challenge recipe.

This batter looked promising: smooth, shiny. What could go wrong? HA!

Alas: these are just glorified almond cookies. Light and airy - but no feet! Arggghhhh.
Still, the caramel was delectable. Not a total loss.


For all things macaron, including recipes, I suggest going to Tartlette's blog. I used her Salty Caramel Sauce, which is the filling for her Pecan Pie Macaron. My shells were unflavored. I think I overfolded my batter. And I will have to experiment more with my oven, which uses gas mark numbers rather than actual temperatures. Live and learn!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Eating My Way through Paris: Macarons part 3

This is the entrance of Ladurée on the Champs-Élysées, a patisserie with a very different modus operandi than Fauchon. Fauchon is modern and chic. Ladurée is aiming for baroque opulence, with velvet walls and chandeliers. It certainly works!

Here's the line on a Saturday night.

There are attendants in white gloves, ready to wrap up whatever delicacy you like.

And the wrapping is absolutely fabulous, as you can see here. This is a little Ladurée tableaux
I set up in our lodgings that night - before we promptly gobbled it down.

Aren't they lovely? Clockwise from the top: bergamot (yes, the spice
that flavors Earl Grey!), pistachio, chocolate, citron, and raspberry.

These were pretty good - I think the pistachio was especially yummy. The bergamot flavored macaron was interesting - it captured the taste of a mildly sweet and creamy cup of tea without being too weird.

Okay, this is not a macaron, but it is, in my opinion, Ladurée's pièce de résistance: a rosewater-raspberry concoction with oh-so-subtly flavored cream and tiny bonbons embedded in the sides. The bottom is a pâte à choux, filled with more cream.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Eating My Way through Paris: Macarons part 2

Fauchon is located by the L'Église de la Madeleine, along with Hédiard, another gourmet food store - which makes for a very tasty corner of Paris, all around.

This is at Fauchon - amazing store, with all sorts of goodies: foie gras,
terrines, pâte de fruits, etc. But look at these pastries! Those are raspberries,
painted a pearly white! I really cant' say enough good things about Fauchon.


Eclairs at Fauchon - not sure what I think of decorating
an eclair like a hot dog, but I'm sure they taste good.


A citron macaron from Fauchon. Perfect macaron shell - you can see the
crunchy exterior, followed by the almondy chewyness, followed by
perfectly flavored filling.

The macarons we ordered at Fauchon were full size - about 2-3 inches in diameter, as you can see above. I must say that they were fantastic. Maybe taste and texture are affected by the size of the macaron - maybe the bigger the better? Anyway, these were a welcome treat after a very wonderful but exhausting day at the Louvre.

Tuesday, October 06, 2009

Eating My Way through Paris: Macarons part 1

Since relocating to Heidelberg, Germany, I've been astounded by how easy it is to get to other European locales. Last weekend we headed to Paris - only 3 1/2 hours by train! As my mom said, "That's like driving to Tahoe!" (from the SF Bay Area, that is). One of my main incentives for going to Paris was sampling all the macarons I've been obsessing about for the last year or so. It seems that this meringue sandwich cookie has taken the foodie-world by storm. So here goes for our Paris macaron taste-off:

This is the display in the Lenôtre, in Bastille, 11th arrondissement.
We stopped there our first morning, for our first macaron tasting.

These were light and satisfyingly crunchy-chewy, with lovely fillings.

I was impressed by the chocolate ganache filling - very rich. The others we tried were pistachio, frambois (raspberry), and caramel, with sea salt. I think my favorite was the caramel (it usually is!), but one complaint is that the sea salt hits you first when you bite into the macaron, and it's a bit strong. The burnt-sugar taste of caramel comes almost at the end, which is too long to wait, in my mind. All in all, though, a great sweet treat - light but very satisfying.

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Heidelberger Herbst

That means "Heidelberg Autumn" - a festival that celebrated its 60th anniversary this last weekend. It was an interesting, and fun, mixture of Oktoberfest, Renaissance fairs, and flea markets.

That's the Oktoberfest part - or so I imagine. Guys dressed up
in traditional German dress and drinking at 10 in the morning!

There were also gingerbread houses (sort of) selling big gingerbread hearts
with cutsie sayings in frosting on them, e.g. "Du bist mein Stern" ("You are my star").
Ah yes, the Ren Fair folks.

Beautiful (and expensive!) armor for sale.

The best part of any festival, though, is the food!
I am all for roasting suckling pig!!


Kartoffelpuffer mit Apfelmus (potato pancakes with applesauce).
Yummmmmmm.


And lots and lots of beer. Drunk from terra cotta cups.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Marketing in Heidelberg

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon out in the Marktplatz...

These are artichoke blooms - I'd never seen before what would happen
if the choke wasn't eaten and allowed to blossom.


My bounty from the market: greens from nearby Handschuheim (literally "Glove Home"),
some Poire William pears, blackberries, and a squash of some sort,
which turned out quite dense and yam-like.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Knitting around the World!














These are the flights I've taken over the last 3 months:

1) NYC to Frankfurt
2) Frankfurt to Tel Aviv
3) Tel Aviv to Frankfurt
4) Frankfurt to NYC
5) NYC to SF
6) SF to NYC
7) NYC to Frankfurt

Needless to say, I am sick of flying now and am happy to stay in one place for a few months. The upside of all this flying is that I had lots and lots of free hours to knit! Here are a few things I've worked on up in the sky (and on the ground):

The mittens I knitted in Israel, during my 5-week intensive biblical Hebrew course. It was a nice, meditative ritual during that time. And they were my first mittens! Knitted on double pointed needles! The hat I made in Germany, after I got back from Israel. It's all knit out of delicious Malabrigo Yarn - merino wool that's beautifully textured and hand-dyed. I loved working with it.

This is a head kerchief I started in the Bay and then finished in Germany. I especially liked learning how to make the more complicated leaf ties - which are, unfortunately, hidden when you wear the thing!


Next on my list? I'm hoping to make a kid mohair cowl scarf and a beret...maybe. And I would love to try my hand at socks and cables. To be continued.

Friday, September 04, 2009

Back in Heidelberg

Finally done with travels this summer, almost ready to hunker down and get some serious research and Greek reading done! But, a little pause before the plunge might be nice! How about some flowers for the apartment? Or a picnic?

Flower are so cheap here! Today I bought a bunch of roses for the equivalent of $6 US!

Our picnic site. This is on the banks of the River Neckar
across from where we live in the Altstadt.

Our picnic! Complete with a sharp Alpine cheese and Landjäger sausage - a hard salami.

Monday, August 17, 2009

Jerusalem Souks: The Old City

I don't know why I'm running out of steam in terms of blogging...especially when I saw such beautiful things in Israel. Well, here are some of my favorite images from the souks in the Old City, on King David Street, the Christian Quarter Road, and in the Muristan.

Beautiful beads and brass lamps - I always think: well, I'll never wear it,
but could I justify buying a bunch just to look at?

Amazing antique and "junk" shops everywhere.

I was tempted to lie down here. Especially after a hot, sunny walk on the city walls.

Hebron glass! I would've bought out the shop, except how in the world to transport things?!

Sometimes I think, I want to fill my place will lamps and rugs... but then, is it weird? Will I be living in some sort of themed place that's not really me? I think this everytime I go somewhere with beautiful things. So, does one have an eclectic collection from around the world or go whole hog with one culture? I guess what one really needs is 10 homes scattered about the world.

And how much stuff is really too much? After moving and putting stuff in storage this last week the cenobitic life seems pretty good to me! Maybe it's enough just to see beautiful artifacts in context rather than continue to collect and consume.


This lamp looks pretty good in context. No need to take it back to Heidelberg!

Saturday, August 01, 2009

Jerusalem Souks: Mahane Yehuda

As usual, I made sure to get to all the markets I could to look, smell, and taste! The biggest fresh produce market in Jerusalem is Mahane Yehuda, which is especially bustling on Friday before Shabbat begins at sundown.

Security is always on alert, of course.



Isn't this particular selection of kippas (yarmulkes) great? I think I'd want a Babar kippa, personally.

A crispy, syrupy fried sweet. Mmmmm.

Even your dog has a variety of snacks to choose from!

Monday, July 20, 2009

Dinner at La Guta

La Guta is a French Moroccan restaurant in Jerusalem, on a quiet street in the German Colony. My roommate, Susan, and I decided to treat ourselves to a nice night out last week - after all, our dorm rooms look like hospital rooms!

It was an amazing place. See below!

Goose liver with chocolate sauce on Belgian waffle. I know, sounds weird, but divine!

Compliments of the chef: red bell pepper canapé.

The climax of the meal: duck confit. You can't go wrong with duck confit.

We shared a dessert - chocolate volcano with vanilla ice-cream and strawberry confit. I think I was too excited to take a picture! The strawberry confit was my favorite thing the whole evening - it tasted of caramelized strawberries. So luscious.

Stay tuned :)

Monday, July 13, 2009

Shalom from Jerusalem!

I had planned on blogging very regularly in Israel, but that was until El Al Airlines foiled my plans by confiscating my computer cord/charger! Apparently it's a dangerous object. But not too dangerous for the post - so I finally received it in the mail yesterday. Here are just some random pics to summarize my experience so far.

View of the Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives.

Lamps inside the Holy Sepulcher.

Ultra-Orthodox Russian Jew at the Kotel (Western Wall). I can't believe the hat in this heat!

Hall of Names at Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum. Each of those volumes in those
shelves contains names and biographical information on Holocaust victims.

A peaceful image in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

More to come!

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Daring Baker's Challenge: Bakewell Puddings!

[Shalom from Jerusalem! I saved this post earlier so I could put it up the day of the Daring Baker's challenge. So, although it seems like I'm in Germany here, I'm in Israel! Pictures coming as soon as El Al airlines returns my computer cord to me!!!]

The June Daring Bakers' challenge was hosted by Jasmine of Confessions of a Cardamom Addict and Annemarie of Ambrosia and Nectar. They chose a Traditional (UK) Bakewell Tart... er... pudding that was inspired by a rich baking history dating back to the 1800's in England.

I have no qualms calling this a pudding, since I am a devoted Anglophile, and any sweet at the end of a meal can be called a pudding! This was a fun challenge, with three elements to work on: the shortcrust, the jam, and the frangipane.

From the Daring Bakers forum: "Flan-like desserts that combine either sweet egg custard over candied fruit or feature spiced ground almonds in a pastry shell have Mediaeval roots. The term 'Bakewell pudding' was first penned in 1826 by Meg Dods; 20 years later Eliza Acton published a recipe that featured a baked rich egg custard overtop 2cm of jam and noted,

'This pudding is famous not only in Derbyshire, but in several of our northern counties where it is usually served on all holiday occasions.'

By the latter half of the 1800s, the egg custard evolved into a frangipane-like filling; since then the quantity of jam decreased while the almond filling increased."

I decided to make currant jam from scratch: how could I resist these beauties at the market?

I think I go by this market every 3 days, just to look at the produce. I can't tear myself away.

After plucking the fruit off their stems, the currants look even more like jewels!

The Redcurrant Jam Recipe:
I found this recipe online, from Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861). I didn't really follow it to the T, just plunked the fruit and some pectin sugar into a pot and let it boil merrily away for about an hour.

To every 450g (1lb) of Fruit allow:
340g (12oz) Sugar

Let the fruit be gathered on a fine day.
Weigh the redcurrants and remove the stalks.
Put into a preserving pan with sugar in the above ratio.
Stir and boil for about 45 minutes.
Carefully remove the scum as it rises.
Put the jam sterilised jars and when cold, cover with airtight lids.

Time: 30 to 45 minutes, reckoning from the time the jam boils all over.
Sufficient: Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb, pots of jam.
Seasonable: Make this in July.

Here all the components can be seen: shortcrust,
topped with currant jam, topped with frangipane.


The Bakewell Pudding Recipe:
Makes one 23cm (9” tart)
Prep time: less than 10 minutes (plus time for the individual elements)
Resting time: 15 minutes
Baking time: 30 minutes
Equipment needed: 23cm (9”) tart pan or pie tin (preferably with ridged edges), rolling pin

One quantity sweet shortcrust pastry (recipe follows)
Bench flour
250ml (1cup (8 US fl. oz)) jam or curd, warmed for spreadability
One quantity frangipane (recipe follows)
One handful blanched, flaked almonds

Assembling the tart
Place the chilled dough disc on a lightly floured surface. If it's overly cold, you will need to let it become acclimatised for about 15 minutes before you roll it out. Flour the rolling pin and roll the pastry to 5mm (1/4”) thickness, by rolling in one direction only (start from the centre and roll away from you), and turning the disc a quarter turn after each roll. When the pastry is to the desired size and thickness, transfer it to the tart pan, press in and trim the excess dough. Patch any holes, fissures or tears with trimmed bits. Chill in the freezer for 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 200C/400F.

Remove shell from freezer, spread as even a layer as you can of jam onto the pastry base. Top with frangipane, spreading to cover the entire surface of the tart. Smooth the top and pop into the oven for 30 minutes. Five minutes before the tart is done, the top will be poofy and brownish. Remove from oven and strew flaked almonds on top and return to the heat for the last five minutes of baking.

The finished tart will have a golden crust and the frangipane will be tanned, poofy and a bit spongy-looking. Remove from the oven and cool on the counter. Serve warm, with crème fraîche, whipped cream or custard sauce if you wish.

When you slice into the tart, the almond paste will be firm, but slightly squidgy and the crust should be crisp but not tough.

Jasmine’s notes:
• If you cannot have nuts, you can try substituting Victoria sponge for the frangipane. It's a pretty popular popular cake, so you shouldn't have any troubles finding one in one of your cookbooks or through a Google search. That said, our dear Natalie at Gluten a Go Go has sourced some recipes and linked to them in the related alt.db thread.
• You can use whichever jam you wish, but if you choose something with a lot of seeds, such as raspberry or blackberry, you should sieve them out.
• The jam quantity can be anywhere from 60ml (1/4 cup) to 250ml (1cup), depending upon how “damp” and strongly flavoured your preserves are. I made it with the lesser quantity of home made strawberry jam, while Annemarie made it with the greater quantity of cherry jam; we both had fabulous results. If in doubt, just split the difference and spread 150ml (2/3cup) on the crust.
Annemarie’s notes:
• The excess shortcrust can be rolled out and cut into cookie-shapes (heck, it’s pretty darned close to a shortbread dough).
Sweet shortcrust pastry

Prep time: 15-20 minutes
Resting time: 30 minutes (minimum)
Equipment needed: bowls, box grater, cling film

225g (8oz) all purpose flour
30g (1oz) sugar
2.5ml (½ tsp) salt
110g (4oz) unsalted butter, cold (frozen is better)
2 (2) egg yolks
2.5ml (½ tsp) almond extract (optional)
15-30ml (1-2 Tbsp) cold water

Sift together flour, sugar and salt. Grate butter into the flour mixture, using the large hole-side of a box grater. Using your finger tips only, and working very quickly, rub the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Set aside.

Lightly beat the egg yolks with the almond extract (if using) and quickly mix into the flour mixture. Keep mixing while dribbling in the water, only adding enough to form a cohesive and slightly sticky dough.

Form the dough into a disc, wrap in cling and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes

Jasmine’s notes:
• I make this using vanilla salt and vanilla sugar.
• If you wish, you can substitute the seeds of one vanilla bean, one teaspoon of vanilla paste or one teaspoon of vanilla extract for the almond extract
Frangipane

Prep time: 10-15 minutes
Equipment needed: bowls, hand mixer, rubber spatula

125g (4.5oz) unsalted butter, softened
125g (4.5oz) icing sugar
3 (3) eggs
2.5ml (½ tsp) almond extract
125g (4.5oz) ground almonds
30g (1oz) all purpose flour

Cream butter and sugar together for about a minute or until the mixture is primrose in colour and very fluffy. Scrape down the side of the bowl and add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. The batter may appear to curdle. In the words of Douglas Adams: Don’t panic. Really. It’ll be fine. After all three are in, pour in the almond extract and mix for about another 30 seconds and scrape down the sides again. With the beaters on, spoon in the ground nuts and the flour. Mix well. The mixture will be soft, keep its slightly curdled look (mostly from the almonds) and retain its pallid yellow colour.

Annemarie’s notes:
• Add another five minutes or more if you're grinding your own almonds or if you're mixing by hand (Heaven help you).

A little plate of goodies, cooling at the window.
It was a great way to spend a Saturday, whipping these up.

Goodbye to Germany for Now

Tomorrow I take off for Jerusalem, for about a month's intensive biblical Hebrew at Hebrew University. I can't wait to see and taste and smell and touch everything there - and to put pictures of it all on the blog. But here's a fond goodbye-for-now to Heidelberg (I'll be here for the next school year starting September).

I just love this garden above a pub. Someone really loves plants!

Cherry tomatoes on the vine at a market.

These are gooseberries, I believe (the German is Stachelbeeren which means "prickle berries").

I noticed these window shutter holders on the street - little knights' heads.

One of my favorite restaurants here: Die Kulturebrauerei. Always good food, always good beer.

This was last night's dinner at Kulturbrauerei: it's called Pfälzer Lieblingsgericht, or "the Palatinate's (an old name for the region) favorite dish." It consists of, in clockwise order starting with the mustard: mustard, boiled potatoes, blood sausage (Blutwurst), caramelized onions on sauerkraut, ground and fried liver (Leberknödel), liver sausage (Leberwurst), and some kind of ham charcuterie. It was delicious. The blood sausage was super rich, with actual bits of fat still solid inside. Decadent innards!

Die Kulturbrauerei's specialty, in terms of beer, is Kellerbier - brewed at a colder temperature, traditionally in the cellar, hence the name. It is rich and malty. Mmmmm.

Here is a view of the castle, which sits above the old city. This was taken, believe it or not, at around 9PM! It is still so light in the sky! I've never lived so far north - I love that in summer there is still light in the sky at 10:30PM.